December 3, 2024
ticycity.com
Destination Food

“Tum Sua Tum Suan” 

The First Chef’s Table Experience

Originally, Tum Sua Tum Suan was just a small shop with a desire to sell clothes, potted plants, serve fresh coffee, and offer a comfortable seating area. However, it evolved into a restaurant that required reservations, known as a “Chef’s Table.” It was possibly one of the first of its kind in Thailand.

Khun Jub – Jaruwanna Boonwiwatthana, the owner of Tum Sua Tum Suan, opened the first shop in the Sathorn area. Back then, it was a small and charming place with fresh tea and coffee to enjoy while admiring plants and clothing.

“Before opening this shop, I had been working in the fashion industry for a long time. I studied fashion design, worked for Central, participated in fashion shows, and even worked near Siam Center. But when the bubble burst, our fashion line collapsed. So, I thought of doing something small and personal – a shop for making clothes and gardening.”

Initially, they expected customers from the nearby condos to buy plants, but they didn’t. Instead, they went to the Suan Siam Market to buy lotus flowers for just 10 baht,” Khun Jub chuckled.

“But after a while, customers began asking if we had any snacks. They pushed us to the limit, so we started serving food. It was simple, single-dish meals like noodles and spaghetti.”

Tum Sua Tum Suan” shop gradually moved to a small alley near the current Mahanakhon Cube building due to limited space. “Back then, the building wasn’t constructed yet, so we set up our shop upstairs, offering a place for dining and selling a bit of clothing and some plants. Our regular customers followed us,” Khun Jub explained.

Due to the limited space, Khun Jub recommended making reservations, specifying the number of guests and their food preferences, reminiscent of the first “Chef’s Table” experiences, which weren’t as popular at the time.

“Our customers only needed to tell us what they wanted, and we could prepare Thai, Chinese, or Western dishes. Whether it was river prawns or salmon, we could source the ingredients for them.”

“Tum Sua Tum Suan” gained its reputation for excellent food and a simple, homely atmosphere. When asked about her culinary education, Khun Jub replied, “I didn’t study anywhere; I learned through trial and error. My knowledge of food came from personal experience. When I was a child in a family that loved eating, I ate all day. Our family was involved in food-related activities. I was often tasked with making dough or other things. I grew up in Bang Pho, where we had a fruit orchard. We grew everything ourselves, so if we wanted sweets, we would grate coconuts or make coconut water. We had vegetables and herbs. We made everything ourselves. We didn’t even buy rice flour; we made it ourselves.”

Khun Jub’s culinary expertise came from her homemade food experiences. The taste, aroma, and cooking process were ingrained in her memory.

“I never attended any cooking school, not even one near my home. I learned from a young age, so I knew what to put in the mortar for chili paste. My knowledge of cooking stayed with me.”

“Tum Sua Tum Suan” – Reopening on Decho Road, Silom

“Tum Sua Tum Suan” shop in the small alley had temporarily closed during the COVID-19 period. Now, it has reopened in a larger space on Decho Road, Silom. The new location occupies a building with the ground floor dedicated to selling predominantly Northern Thai textiles, handwoven fabrics, and dyed cotton, as well as dresses and home décor items. There is also a cozy corner for enjoying tea and coffee. The upper floor serves as a dining area, and it is advisable to make reservations in advance.

“We are currently open for walk-ins, but the seating is somewhat limited. Most customers prefer to book for dinner. They specify the number of guests and their food preferences. Our menu is quite extensive, and sometimes customers even request specific dishes. For instance, if they want Thai food or a particular type of dish, we can accommodate their requests. However, some prefer to leave it to the chef’s choice. We offer a wide variety, and diners can enjoy a range of dishes. Some ask if we cook fusion cuisine. Not really, it’s more about our style,” explained Chef Jub.

At Chef’s Table, Chef Jub offers dinner courses, which can be selected as 3-course, 4-course, or 5-course meals. Diners have the option to choose their main ingredients, such as beef, salmon, shrimp, or crab. During lunch hours, they offer simple one-dish meals like fried rice, shrimp paste fried rice, spaghetti, salads, and desserts.

“For the dinner courses, there are various price ranges. Some courses come without appetizers and go straight to soup. For instance, today we have pumpkin soup and truffle soup. Customers can choose from various soups, such as mushroom, onion, or seafood soup. We serve them with a drizzle of truffle oil, cheese, or some croutons and top them off with crispy bacon or salmon. We also offer a variety of appetizers, like our Thai-style papaya salad. It contains a plethora of ingredients, including lettuce, mango, pomelo, apple, and rose apple, creating a fragrance with a touch of spiciness,” Chef Jub elaborated.

“Another popular dish is the papaya salad with grilled mackerel. The salad contains a wide array of ingredients like glass noodles, grilled mackerel, shrimp, dried shrimp, and more. It’s topped with a unique tamarind dressing and served with crispy shallots. Customers also enjoy our dishes like the grilled shellfish with chili paste, which features the same chili paste used in our salads. Sometimes we add champignon mushrooms or even sautéed foie gras to the menu. It really depends on what ingredients are available to us at the time.”

One of the signature dishes at “Tum Sua Tum Suan” is the “Salad Tum Sua Tum Suan,” which is a mixed salad featuring roasted chili paste, sesame oil, fresh lime juice, and a mix of vegetables and fruits like butterhead lettuce, mango, apple, pomelo, and rose apple. It offers a delightful combination of flavors and aromas.

“When customers request certain dishes, we try to accommodate their preferences. For example, if someone wants a Fajita, Lobster, or Lamb, we can prepare it. We create our own style, such as the Beef Stir-Fry with Basil or the Lamb with Chinese Wine. If someone requests Lamb, we might stir-fry it with vermicelli. Or if they request Lobster, we can prepare it with white wine sauce. It can be Thai or Western-style. It depends on the customer’s choice,” Chef Jub explained.

The restaurant doesn’t serve wine, but if customers bring their own, there’s no corkage fee. However, they kindly request a tip for the service, as they take care of the wine glasses.

“Our customers often return. They come back multiple times, not just once,” Chef Jub smiled.

Note: “Tum Sua Tum Suan” is located on Decho Road, Silom. You can contact them at 081 843 9628 or find them on Facebook under ทำเสื้อทำสวน (Homemade cooking).

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