In the bustling heart of old Bangkok, where trade and entertainment thrived, one name stood out—Am Daeng Faeng. Once the most influential madam in Sampheng, she amassed wealth through her high-end brothel and later transformed her legacy by founding Wat Khanika Phon. Her story, intertwined with the city’s commercial and cultural evolution, offers a fascinating glimpse into 19th-century Bangkok.
From Brothel Queen to Temple Benefactor
Am Daeng Faeng was a powerful woman of Thai-Chinese descent, married to Chao Sua Ian, a wealthy Chinese merchant. Together, they operated a thriving business in Sampheng, the city’s commercial hub. At the height of her career, she ran Rong Mae Faeng, a luxurious brothel that catered to Bangkok’s elite. Unlike many in her profession, she carefully invested her wealth, later using it to fund the construction of Wat Khanika Phon in 1833. Her daughter, Mae Kleep, followed in her footsteps, establishing Wat Kanma Tuyaram in 1864.
Exploring Sampheng’s Forgotten History
The remnants of this bygone era can still be traced in Yaowarat Soi 8, once known as Trok Tao—a key location in Bangkok’s early red-light district. Green lanterns once marked the entrances to brothels, symbolizing wealth and prosperity. Nearby, Wat Bamphen Chin Phrot, originally a Guan Yin shrine, remains a testament to the area’s rich cultural heritage.
Further inside, past an iron gate tucked between warehouses, lies Wat Kanma Tuyaram, Mae Kleep’s contribution to Buddhist merit-making. While largely hidden from plain sight, its historical significance endures.
The Prestige of Rong Mae Faeng
Unlike most brothels of the time, Rong Mae Faeng was renowned for its opulence. Lavishly furnished rooms featured gold-trimmed betel nut sets, silk mosquito nets, and ornate dressing tables, reflecting its status as an establishment for Bangkok’s elite. Music and entertainment were an integral part of the experience, drawing merchants from across the region.
During the reign of King Rama V, Bangkok had 67 registered brothels and 656 licensed sex workers, forming a significant part of the city’s economy. These establishments were not only tolerated but also heavily taxed, contributing to state revenue.
A Temple Built from Scandalous Wealth
Later in life, Am Daeng Faeng turned to merit-making, using her wealth to build Wat Khanika Phon, ensuring her name would be remembered beyond her brothel empire. Today, the temple remains a place of worship, particularly for women seeking blessings for charisma and prosperity.
As night falls over Plubplachai, some believe her spirit lingers, much like the green lanterns that once illuminated Sampheng’s most exclusive establishment.
